Horale

Yes, I do realize that this blog is supposed to be in English, but with this week's special, I couldn't help it. The blog title, horale, is Spanish slang that usually translates to "right on!", like when I assemble a really good special for the first time and it comes out even better than I had hoped, and I turn to my cook Alejandro and say "Horale!" while nodding my head; he knows. He knows that i've made it chingon - the best.

I'm always asked where I learned Spanish, and I always respond with the same lousy joke "in school", but while I was taught the words by a teacher, I didn't speak the language until I worked in kitchens in New York City, and even more so when I became chef there. The funny thing is, the more you learn the more you become apart of the culture, and before long I started to notice the Latino influences seeping into my cooking style. Nowadays my tastes are ever-changing, and I usually add those influences in subtle moderation, but with a new taco truck popping up everywhere in Seattle, I know that I can find a good audience for my take on comida authentica.

For those of you who wish to disparage how much Mexican cuisine has become apart of our culture, all you need for proof is to visit your local grocery store, like the banana leaves or corn husks at the QFC on Broadway or the masa harina (corn flour) at the Safeway on 15th Ave, the essential ingredients for tamales, but for me that's not enough.

To fill my tamales, I first slow-cooked chicken thighs over applewood logs, allowing for a good, smoky flavor without being overbearing. Once cooled I mixed the shredded meat with onions, garlic, oregano, chicken stock and other spices that made up the core for the tamale. For the filling of the tamale I went traditional, but with extra flavor by slowly mixing the masa harina with pork fat until it was crumbly like making pastry dough and then I added just enough rich chicken stock to bring it all together. I used banana leaves to wrap the meat and dough into one very large ubertamale. While they steamed for two hours I prepared the remaining components.

For the first component I needed a sauce, so I went with a French-Spanish hybrid, faulty gas pedal excluded (yuk, yuk!). I started my ragout by first searing off diced chorizo sausage in butter, and then I added chopped onions and garlic, chicken stock, Spanish paprika, smoked paprika, chipotle powder (which technically is another type of paprika...) tomatoes and parsley. Once thickened and seasoned I set the ragout aside to cool.

To balance out the spicy ragout I decided to use another winter vegetable favorite before it's gone - the rutabaga. This misunderstood yellow turnip is absolutely outstanding when peeled and simmered in a little half and half and water, and it is silky smooth after you strain it and puree it with just a touch of its own cooking liquid. Here, it acts as a buffer between the smoky tamale and the spicy chorizo ragout.

To continue on with the Latino theme I decided to concoct a punch of sorts to pay tribute to some of this lovely afternoon sun that we have been receiving lately.

Tamarind is a tropical sour fruit that comes from a pod, and when the pulp of that fruit is mixed with a little sugar it has a delightfully balanced of flavor. For this cocktail I mixed a little tamarind concentrate with some leftover kumquat puree and a little fresh lime juice, and, once mixed with a hefty portion of rum it makes for really refreshing sipping drink - almost like you were on the beach in Oaxaca, Mexico!!

Con Mi Amor,

Cheffrey

It Ain't Easy Being Green

As I'm sure that you know, Wednesday is St. Patrick's Day, or perhaps better known as Anotherreasontogetreallydrunk Day. Despite being part Irish myself, I had sworn off going out drinking on Saint Paddy's years ago due to an overwhelming amount of amateurs drinking well beyond their capacity, trying as they might to be Irish for a day.

Instead, I prefer to honor the day the second-best way that I know how: cooking, and of course the only dish there is to discuss is Corned Beef and Cabbage. Now, since I didn't want to take the straightforward approach (as usual) there were several variations that I could have taken. For instance, my best friend, Greg, celebrates the day by making Reuben sandwiches, cooking them grilled cheese-style but with mayo instead of butter. Scoff if you must, but ignorance isn't bliss... that sandwich is!! Nevertheless, I just didn't want this special to be a sandwich, so I decided to play off of the traditional dish more exclusively and make Reubens for me and my staff with the leftover trimmings!!! ;)

Over the last month or so I deliberated whether or not to cure my own brisket for this holiday (fyi - the term corned refers to the corn kernel-sized salt used to brine the meat), but in the end I thought it was best to use pre-cured beef since it is during the cooking process that the magic happens.

In my opinion the best way to cook corned beef is in a large pan in the oven, submerged in liquid and spices, and being St. Patrick's Day there is only one liquid that comes to mind: Guinness. Those of you regular followers might remember the inspiration for this when I braised beef in Guinness for a risotto special earlier in the year. I kept the spices moderate and simple, just a little coriander, bay leaves and peppercorns to allow the beer to shine. While the beef cooked slowly in the oven I started on the other components.

For the sauce I wanted to toy with the traditional condiment of mustard without any chance of it overpowering the subtle flavors that I was developing while cooking the meat. To do so I created a sauce base of equal parts of white wine, chicken broth and heavy cream that I slowly reduced
with a medley of aromatics that included shallots, garlic, bay leaves, thyme and peppercorns. Once the mixture was the right consistency I strained and chilled it, awaiting the final dab of Dijon mustard upon order.

The cabbage for this dish deserves an interesting side note: as I stated above, I am part Irish, but the other part is German. While the two are remarkably different, culinarily speaking they share many similar keystones such as potatoes, drinking and cabbage. As a graduation present from my mother, she and my stepfather took me on an European trip that included a stop in Munich, Germany where I sampled true versions of sauerkraut that literally made any that I've had before taste like water. The sauerkraut that I had at a restaurant across from the Rathaus-Glockenspiel has remained in my memory still today, twelve years later. Even aside from its layers of pure craftsmanship there was one unique flavor that stood out: caraway. Growing up, like most Americans, I believed that rye bread tasted the way it does because of the caraway seeds and not the rye flour used to make it. Now, every time that I cook cabbage I try to impart some of that caraway flavor to pay tribute to the sauerkraut that I had back in Munich as long as it doesn't take away from the dish as a whole.

So, to bridge my two heritages I integrated caraway into my braised cabbage for this dish by first simmering beef stock with aromatics similar to the mustard sauce above but with the addition of toasted caraway seeds for their floral aroma, which I used to cook the cabbage to order, imparting all of that wonderful flavor.

After all of that, I am left with the crucial final component: the potatoes. All along I wanted to encrust long portions of the cooked beef with potato, but after several attempts using different techniques I was still unsuccessful, but being a chef I was relentless with my vision and finally came up with a solution. By making very thin potato pancakes I was able to wrap the pieces of meat similar to using a crepe or tortilla. Once trimmed each serving was roasted in the oven to crisp the potato and heat the corned beef before being sliced and served over the cabbage and sauce.

Happy Saint Patrick's Day!!!

I still find it funny how one idea rolls into the next and into the next; it's that perpetual ball of creativity that gets me up in the morning, makes me want to work on my day off and, of course, fuels this blog.

Once I got my hands on kumquats for my recent duck special they brought back a lot of great (yet still unfounded) ideas that I had for them back in my early days of cooking, but then again, I wasn't a self-proclaimed mixologist then either!!!

So I decided to enterprise on them while they are still in season by chopping and simmering the bittersweet fruit with a little bit of sugar into something that is somewhere between a juice and a syrup, but even after the addition of Absolut Mandarin and sans the sugar rim...... it surpasses anything that I've dreamt up before !!!

With Love,

Cheffrey

Beware of Feral Chef

I have been working on this dish for quite some time now, which sometimes seems funny to me since my specials usually take shape at the last minute, but every now and then there are those vague ideas that surface while trying to work out a completely unrelated dish, like a culinary daydream, when every now and then a "wouldn't it be cool if I did this" thought lingers but never goes away completely. This one lived in the dark recesses of my mind, biding its time, waiting for the stars to align, until....

I always had envisioned a variation on the chicken fried steak concept, but every component was still blank. It wasn't until a couple of weeks ago when I decided that I wanted to use handmade tater tots filled with extra sharp white cheddar cheese as one of those components did I finally see this dish come to life. Instead of the traditional ketchup usually served with tater tots I used my own version that adorn the Chicken Andouille Sausage Corndogs: Sweet Soy Ketchup, a blend of our house-made tomato jam with Indonesian sweet soy sauce that is as thick as molasses, and almost as sweet.

After writing last week's post where I decided to use this time of year to utilize the last of the winter vegetables while they are still available I realized that I almost forgot one of the season's great unsung heroes: cauliflower. I used to hate it, until I had it sauteed! There is little better that a nice pile of well caramelized cauliflower, especially when you finish it like I do with a touch of butter and a hefty pinch of fresh parsley and chives to brighten both the flavor as well as the color.

In order to stay true to the original concept I had to sauce any incarnation of chicken fried steak with the traditional pepper gravy, so I thickened milk with a roux made from flour and lard, that key Southern flavor, but seasoned it with not only freshly ground black pepper but also white, green and pink peppercorns to offer a familiar yet distinct flavor to the gravy.

Now that I had all of the components decided I needed a unique meat to finalize this concept dish. It wasn't until just yesterday that I finally got my hands on some "feral swine" (delightfully fitting for me ;) - better known as wild boar, from Texas. I sliced a boneless leg into half inch slices and divided each one into two per serving before pounding them relentlessly into thin, tender cutlets. Then I tossed them in a coating made with flour and an array of seasonings (Cheffrey's 13 herbs and spices??) before dunking them into eggs blended with buttermilk and back into the seasoned flour before pan-frying it into crispy goodness.

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When I was a kid, without a doubt my favorite thing in the whole world was cherry... anything cherry. Supposedly the cherry tree on the side of our house was planted when I was born, to which I had always attributed my infatuation with the fruit. Now that I'm older (and a chef) my tastes have matured and grown, but whenever I taste a great cherry it automatically takes me back to when I was young when life was much simpler.

So when I saw the latest Trader Joe's flyer promoting their 100% pure cherry juice I knew that I was destined to create a cocktail with it. After all, in my mind it's something from my childhood with something from my adulthood... that makes you act childish. It's perfect!!!

I was excited the second I opened it; it's literally just cherry juice and filtered water (you gotta love TJ's!!!) and tastes rightfully so. Since alcohol dilutes everything that it is mixed with I reduced the juice slowly down by half, adjusting with a little sugar to balance out the increasing tartness. After chilling and blending with some Skyy vodka, the final product was remarkably like a cherry version of Chambord, the raspberry liqueur, in both appearance and refinement.

After a flurry of ideas, some of which I will be using later, I finally decided to keep it simple and feature another variation on the classic Kir Royale by using my own liqueur instead.

The Cherry Royale might sound sophisticated, but you now know that it has a kid's ambition at heart.

With Love,

Cheffrey

The Sweetest Man on Earth!

With the blossoming cherry and dogwood trees here in Seattle, it's hard to believe that it isn't even officially spring for another two weeks, but we chefs aren't buying it. The market has nothing new to offer; salad greens are wet, staple items like herbs aren't available, and there's the same winter vegetables that are now so familiar I could spell them backwards in my sleep. I have reached that one culinary point in the year that I can honestly say I hate.

Luckily for me I have yet to use some of the seasonal vegetables that are readily found now, but pretty soon I'm going to start having dreams of squash eating me.

The thought process for this dish started with a tiny fruit, the kumquat, and my love affair with anything agrodulce (I like to use the Spanish spelling since it has influenced my style of cooking more than Italian). I immediately thought of pairing duck breast with kumquat as a variation on the classic Duck a l'Orange dish, but due to the high cost of quality duck breasts I was afraid that the price for the dish would be too much, but I managed to keep it within our range.

Since I wanted to use the kumquats as a sauce I first built a foundation of flavor with minced shallots, ginger and garlic that I cooked in brandy and apple cider vinegar until almost all of the liquid had evaporated, then I simmered it with fresh orange juice until it reduced by half before I added clover honey and sliced kumquats. After gently cooking until thickened the final glaze resembled something similar to a marmalade but wasn't too sweet due to the cider vinegar and fruit.

Those of you regulars probably have noticed by now that I love cooking with bitter, leafy greens like the sauteed curly kale that I used here. Not only is it healthy and vibrant, but it's mild bitterness helps balance out even slightly sweet vegetables. Instead of a long braise that can turn it an ugly color and release some natural occurring sulfur (yuk), I like to chop my kale very finely and cook it covered with a little white wine, onions and garlic, butter and just enough water to make it wilt before it all dries up.

While kale can offer some great texture to a dish, I wanted to go a step further and compose a sort of dry salad by combining freshly julienned green apple with raw celery root, a.k.a. celeriac, which is kind of funny because I can't stand regular celery, but I love the flavor and versatility that the root has to offer, and you don't often see it used raw like the way that I am using it here. The combination of the two really gives a unique flavor and subtle undertone that complements the other components and helps define the dish.

For a velvety element I opted for the last use of butternut squash for the season by first peeling and chopping it, and then simply simmering the cubes in half and half before blending it into a wonderfully thick puree. It is only after I place the perfectly roasted duck breast on top and finish it with the kumquat glaze do you get the chance to dig in and experience the way that this chain of ingredients intermingle and play off of one another, and that isn't just some chef jive!!!


As of last Friday we started with a new menu with some slight changes: The Fig Mai Tai that was once featured as a special here has now made it into the big leagues and the hanger steak has been replaced with a New York strip because it is heartier and less wasteful, but the real winner is found on the back side of the menu.

Since the Doughnut A la Mode and 219 Ding Dong have dominated the dessert scene here I decided to replace the Apple-Cardamom Crisp with something more noteworthy, so I added the Banana Bread Foster, which is a take on the traditional flambe dish where I fill slices of handmade banana bread with a mixture of banana liqueur, caramel sauce and fresh bananas and top it off with our very own vanilla bean ice cream. I'd love to post a picture of it here, but these damn things sell so fast, I can hardly keep up!!!

So as a tribute to the "new sheriff in town" I thought a matching cocktail would be fitting, one that I stumbled onto while testing out the Bourbon Ball cocktail that I offered over the holidays. I combined creme de banana, Frangelico hazelnut liqueur, rye whiskey and a touch of creme de cacao with a splash of lemon juice to cut any sweetness to present the world's first Banana Bread Martini!!!

With Love,

Cheffrey

As Good As Gold

Last week's gumbo special left me a bit nostalgic for the flavors of the South, not so much of a longing for home but rather a reminder of the past. Awashed with memories of the many other childhood delicacies that I enjoyed while growing up, I contemplated a way that I could bring together traditional southern components with my current refined cooking style to come up with something appealing to the Pacific Northwest palate.

I remember my first experience of "fine-dining southern food" when I was an extern at a resort outside of Charleston, South Carolina in 1997. Just as I still do now, I went out to any restaurant that I could afford (and some that I couldn't) to learn and to grow with every bite. Grits were cooked and cut like the way that polenta was so popular at that time, cornmeal crusted whole fish were served swimmingly on platters and every vegetable was perfectly cooked as opposed to their traditional counterparts.

Now, years later, most of my southern culinary roots have given way to newer and more global inspirations, but this time I have included them in the mix.

If you have happened upon this blog at least once before you have probably already realised my infactuation with pork, and like a long lost friend I have been patiently awaiting its return to my side. My favorite cut is the tenderloin, due to its moistness and versatility, but this week I gave it a little extra love...

I marinated each portion in blended olive oil previously steeped with herbs, spices, chiles, shallots, garlic, etc., etc., and pan roasted them with this oil to give a more intense flavor than typical methods. Once all sides were seared and the center was perfectly pink I let the meat rest so that it can relax and allow for all of the juices to redistribute.

I have never cared much for grits as a breakfast item, but I always enjoyed letting them shine on the savory side. Here I initially cooked them with beef stock, but finished them with a touch of half and half and a handful of grated manchego cheese, made from sheep's milk in the La Mancha region in Spain which adds the perfectly rich/nuttiness to compliment grits.

For the sauce I deviated from the traditional red-eye gravy by making a country ham stock and then finishing it with freshly brewed chicory coffee, a blend of regular coffee beans with ground chicory root which yields a dark and robust version that was brought to Louisiana by the Acadians (a.k.a. Cajuns) and enjoyed in kitchens like my own. Instead of the brute flavor of coffee thickened with ham drippings and flour, I balanced the two brews into a flavorful broth with only a touch of brown sugar and black pepper since the cured ham provided all of the salt.

With the addition of beautiful, organic rainbow swiss chard, I assembled the plate with the rested, sliced tenderloin, omitting the always over-cooked end pieces, leaving beautiful medallions of meat as rich and valuable as gold!!!

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Now that I am refining my art of cocktail making, I now have a sense of what customers like when it comes to my concoctions. Though in a new decade, we are still in an era of Martini-Madness, and I am one to comply.

As a chef an cocktail drinker, I love the addition of more "culinary" ingredients to drinks nowadays, like lemongrass, specialty fruits and even herbs. While mint is the most common, I really believe that basil is the most versatile herb to use in mixology.

So, after a slow simmering of blackberries with just a touch of sugar (so that the pectin doesn't react, causing it to become too thick) I cooled, pureed and strained it before undergoing another process of pureeing and steeping before straining again to end up with an elixir that, when combined with vodka is a wonderful combination of fruity flavors with a grassy, slightly licorice flavor that's not too sweet - An absolute delight!!!

With Love,

Cheffrey

Here, It's Fat Tuesday Every Week!

I am surprised at how many people that I talked to today didn't realize that it was Mardi Gras, the last night of rich eating (and now, debauchery) before the religious ritual of fasting for lent beginning on Ash Wednesday. I am not saying that everyone should know the calender of every religion, but New Orleans has made it into such a legendary event in this country that most people are usually aware of it. Maybe it's been overshadowed by the Olympics, or maybe it's a regional thing.

Where I grew up it wasn't so much of a religious aspect of it as it was a festive aspect, because my family has a deep affinity for the city of New Orleans, starting with my grandfather, Paw-Paw, whom we even had a jazz funeral for per his request. Naturally this love affair with the culture, music, and food was passed down to his children, which lead to feasts and revel of Cajun-style dishes peppered throughout my childhood, which, combined with my own rite of passage there myself at the age of nineteen, have lent a hand in shaping who I am as a chef today.

As a tribute to Fat Tuesday and my family's home-away-from-home I decided to feature a gumbo dish as this week's special, complete with all of my own special little touches!

Probably the most important aspect of a great gumbo starts at the beginning with the roux (a combination of flour and some kind of fat used to thicken a sauce or stew) and the key is how long you cook it; the more you cook it, the darker it gets and the more pronounced the flavor becomes. In Cajun cooking the roux is cooked anywhere from a deep red to a coffee black, depending on the region and cook.

I personally like to use flour and lard, or in this case, bacon fat, to make my roux for gumbo, and I cooked it slowly over medium heat while stirring it constantly for about half an hour until it is a little darker than the color of melted milk chocolate before I added chopped bell peppers, celery and onion (a.k.a. the "holy trinity") along with some minced garlic, fresh thyme and bay leaves. Once the vegetables have cooked completely in the molten roux I slowly stirred in ground tasso ham that I cured and smoked myself along with a mixture of clam juice, oyster liquor, chicken stock and lobster stock as well as the poaching liquid for some chicken andouille sausage (the same kind that I use for our corndogs) that I finished ahead so that they wouldn't be overcooked in final product.

While the gumbo simmered and developed its flavor for about an hour I began work on the serving dish - an edible bread bowl.

While brainstorming for my snow crab special a couple of weeks ago I started thinking about the possibility of creating edible plates and bowls for certain dishes, and while using a squash or individual round of bread might not be unique, the process has led me to some interesting ideas to try out in the future. Meanwhile, there are few better companions than a hearty stew and fresh baked bread, so why not combine them!!

I removed the gumbo from the heat before adding local oysters, scallops, shrimp and the cooked andouille sausage so that they would cook just enough in the residual heat. Then I seasoned it with the same combination of Cajun seasonings and file powder that I use to flavor our happy hour Cajun Cheese Fries with Beer Cheese Sauce. I add okra (from which gumbo takes its name) to each individual order so that it stays crisp and keeps the trademark sliminess down to a minimum.

You can't say Bourbon Street without saying bourbon, so I pulled out a little treat to commemorate the spirit of Mardi Gras...

For the past few weeks I have been infusing a couple of liquors with dried fruit; one being a fig and rum combination to put the successful Fig Mai Tai on our actual menu, and the other is another combination with great potential: plum infused bourbon.

Since I don't want to disrupt this subtle flavor mixture, I used it as an approachable variation of a traditional cocktail along with a touch of sweet vermouth and a few dashes of quality Peychaud's bitters from New Orleans to make The Plum Manhattan!!!

To be honest, I don't need a religious holilday to come up with a rich and decadent special, and you don't need one to come and enjoy it. Afterall, we do it every week starting on Tuesday with the introduction of the new special along with our half-priced wine night!!

With Love,

Cheffrey

Foodgasm

Valentine's Day means different things to different people. Sure, it's a Hallmark holiday, but for many it is a chance to appreciate their significant other by spending time with them rather than a forced showering of gifts. While still a part of that commercial aspect, we chefs spend the day apart from our loved ones toiling away for that lover's feast, trying our best to make up for that fact with sultry menus filled with enticing ingredients. I, of course, take it a step further.

I expanded the theme idea that I used on New Year's Eve for this Valentine's Day menu by developing dishes that contain aphrodisiac ingredients; some are more known like oysters and chocolate, as well as the less familiar basil, tomatoes and red meat. Here is what I came up with:
One dish in particular has a special meaning for me, so I'm going to offer it all week... and I am dedicating it to my beautiful wife, Anna, because the dish was actually inspired by her: the New York strip steak.

As sometimes happens, I stumbled upon this flavor combination by chance when I was trying to make a healthy yet flavorful meal for Anna while experimenting with some new ingredients. She loves roasted yams, and grapefruit is one of the few fruits in season right now, so I combined them as a sort of salad with a roasted chicken breast cutlet that had been marinated in soy sauce, sweet soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil and gochujang, a Korean fermented chili paste that has a sweet, sour salty and spicy taste that I have fell in love with since being introduced to it by my friend and colleague, Tommy Lee (now of Elemental Food Design, but still Korean, he, he!), and continue to enjoy at our neighbor's restaurant, Kimchi Bistro.

Those flavor combinations really popped so I conjured a restaurant version of it, but instead of a chicken breast I went with a thick cut New York Strip steak not only for aphrodisiac purposes (see the menu notes) but also to represent my NYC born-and-raised wife. I modified the marinade into a sauce that also includes ginger, garlic, scallion, beef stock and a Korean fermented soybean paste similar to Japan's miso, along with the original recipe's ingredients of chili paste, rice vinegar, sweet soy sauce, soy sauce and sesame oil. I kept the yam-grapefruit salad simple by roasting garnet yams, which are sweeter, to pair with the sweet and sour of the ruby red grapefruit segments, and then garnished the plate with steamed baby artichoke hearts, because even after a menu like that I still like to show how clever I am :)!!
I know what you may be thinking, and we heard a lot of it on Tuesday night: "Yams with grapefruit!?!", but once you taste it, you will understand the true meaning of love.

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Once I came up with the Pomegranate Margarita a few weeks back I knew what I wanted to do for this week's drink special, since it consists of two great aphrodisiacs: sparkling wine and pomegranate.

Even though some believe that pomegranate was actually the forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden, scientifically speaking it contains a long list of chemical compounds to get you in the mood, such as Vitamin C, alkaloids, and various minerals, but the truth is: we just want to get drunk and get down to the dirty!!!

So to facilitate that I made a "mimosa" by first combining three forms of pomegranate: juice, schnapps and molasses with some of our tasty brut cava from Spain. It is both refreshing and intoxicating - just like a good lover should be!!!

With (Extra) Love,

Cheffrey

Gingerly Embraced

This past Sunday we had our annual joint employee party with our sister restaurant, Geraldine's Counter. It is a tradition that Gary and Stacey started well before I got there, and each year it is something different.

This year we rented a party bus to shuttle us between both restaurants, Trade Route Brewery in Pacific, WA and ACME Bowling in Tukwila; a wise choice considering the amount of booze we brought on board and the extra hour we spent riding around when the driver was lost while trying to get there (sorry, no incriminating stories or photos from me... all I can say is that restaurant people sure know how to party!). While we spent the majority of our time at ACME (the nicest bowling alley that I've ever been to, btw), it was my experience at Trade Route that influenced me.

We sampled five different types of beer that they are currently brewing, one of which is a pale ale brewed with fresh ginger that was so fantastic that I now have the arduous task of trying to get it on our tap at the restaurant. After talking with the owners/brewmasters we found out that a fortunate by-product of the ginger ale is all of the leftover ginger, which they then candy!

So with a bag full of candied ginger left to me by the brewmasters I worked on a cocktail that I have been planning since the Blueberry Tea last December: Ginger Tea.

Cooled, fresh brewed green tea is muddled with the candied ginger and mint leaves along with a touch of simple syrup and finished with brandy. I had originally planned on serving this cocktail exclusively hot, but due to our abnormal warm and sunny weather here I decided to offer it either way.

Though this particular cocktail is not directly beer influenced, I do have a few in mind that are, but those beer cocktails may have to wait for some experimentation and/or warmer weather, like the Stout Beer Float that I've always wanted to do, especially since I am now churning my own vanilla bean ice cream.

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It is no secret that I love crab, though it may come as a surprise that I love crab even more than I do pork (Bavarian Meats bacon excluded...), but due to the generally high price of crabmeat I can rarely use them for dishes in our price range. Now that we are in Opilio crab season in the Bering Sea (yes, I watch Deadliest Catch on Discovery), I am finally able to put the amount of crab on a plate that I feel is more than respectable.

While researching ideas to use king crab in a special a few months ago I came across a classic American dish called Crab Imperial, an east-coast recipe made by stuffing a shell or other vessel with an abundance of blue crabmeat, seasonings and just a bit of mayonnaise that is then topped with breadcrumbs and baked in the oven until golden brown.

In keeping with the season I decided to instead use snow crabmeat mixed with Old Bay seasoning and our house-made aioli to fill pre-roasted acorn squash halves, and then topped them off with fresh breadcrumbs made with the same sourdough bread that has made our French toast famous. As accompaniments I added two traditional parings for crab: fresh avocado slices and tomato, in the form of a chutney, made from stewing Chinese red vinegar, brown sugar, dried currants, onions, garlic, fresh diced tomatoes, Garam Masala, and a touch of arbol chile flake for warmth.

Aside from the squash vessel, the chutney adds an unbelievable dimension to the traditional crab dish, but for the purist who prefer their crab unadulterated (like myself), I kept it on the side to be enjoyed if interested.

With Love,

Cheffrey